Bilt Hamber Hydrate 80 (500ml)

Product Information

Most of the bits have been in Deox C for a while, and they're about 99% rust free, but under the heading of "Belt and braces" I was thinking about treating some parts with Hydrate 80. The blue'ish fluid was applied, and then i left it on over night to fully get to work on the remaining rust, by the next day it was a nice even dark color ,before using some fiberglass, to finish it off application of under sealer to make it fully water tight . It's a cute little baby "Valor Minor 64" boiling stove, and apart from the dusting of surface rust on the chimney, it's in a really nice usable condition. If I paint it onto bare metal, but panels you can see, can fillers and paint to over the top of it trouble free?

I'm doing all I can to clean the pits out with wire brushes and an acid based product I have, but in areas I can't clean perfectly, I need a product to do it's best to hold any tiny specs I may have missed. Hydrate 80 provides powerful protection to rusted steel surfaces, its electrochemical function stabilises existing corrosion by converting the iron oxides into a protective metal complex, it also combines with surface moisture and oxygen depriving the corrosion process of the conditions it requires.

It is easy to apply and relatively innocuous - although I wore gloves, I didn't fear for my health as much as I've done with other products. Having said that, the BH deox-gel/deox-C is better if you have the time to use it, making for a longer lasting repair and enables you to use the Electrox zinc coating afterwards.

If the panel or item can be removed, soaking in a receptacle of Deox C solution can give great results. If you are talking about filling small pitted rust marks you might find that epoxy, then a coat of high build primer is sufficient. It calmed down a bit over the last few days, so I decided today that I would risk actually DOING something in a "Pointy object" rich environment. Hydrate-80 provides powerful protection to rusted steel surfaces, its electrochemical function stabilises existing corrosion by converting the iron oxides into a protective metal complex and it also combines with surface moisture and oxygen depriving the corrosion process of the conditions it requires. Having spent time putting really nasty chemicals through piping systems at significant pressure, mixing ferrules can be a bad experience.The first coat should be worked into pitted areas and then smoothed by brush strokes in one direction. The long-term performance of hydrate 80 has been proven to significantly increase coating life in independent tests conducted by the German TÜV organisation under conditions of VDA 621-415 (6 cycles, or 1008 hrs) which included exposure to hot salt-spray, 100% relative humidity and drying atmospheres with each cycle lasting 168 hours.

That's what BH tell you so I would believe them if they say not suitable in this application especially if it turns out to leave some sort of plastic residue. In that photo, the pot on top was just me seeing how long it took to boil a litre of water (18 minutes in that thermally sub optimal shaped cafetiere if you're curious), and the disc of 10mm steel was just to see how hot a (non chimney blocking) lid would get, then it stayed there as a sort of heat spreader. Well, the tank needed a little more soldering work than I'd expected, and I still wasn't anywhere near happy with the level of my prep work I'd managed to do, but today's been the only time I've felt up to messing about with this in a week (Almost constant mid level dizziness has been dictating what I've been capable of doing without it being too dangerous when I fall over. Bilt Hamber Hydrate-80 Rust Converter is a rust converter which provides unparalleled protection to rusted steel surfaces. The paint I've got is apparently good for 800'C, and as I've never seen the smaller diameter unpainted chimneys on the Aladdin greenhouse paraffin heaters so much as start to glow I'm assuming it's going to be somewhere south of 550/600'C, so I'm hoping it'll be fine.

Hydrate-80 has been used to arrest and prevent corrosion in diverse applications – from massive marine installations to classic and historic vehicle restoration Hydrate-80 provides dependable long-term protection. If you sand or grind off the Hydrate I think you would be mostly back to what you started with before Hydrate 80 went on.

Importantly for long-term protection Hydrate-80 doesn’t contain chlorine which is known to transform into corrosive hydrochloric acid in rust converter applications causing under-film blistering and destruction of paint finishes or other coating products.

It's pretty expensive though, so I have been using the Electrox over the welded/derusted patches and cheaper stuff like 182 over the other bits. Wash hands with soap and water after contact and in case of contact with eyes wash with plenty of running water and seek medical attention.