Hornby R070 00 Gauge Turntable Electric

Product Information

The special worms are also available....just need a worm puller to remove existing worm....and a method of fitting new worm without damaging the motor.... Failing that, how feasible do you think it would be for me to fit the worm myself, using a mechanic's vice? It looks like it is theoretically possible, but do you think there is too much risk of motor damage - bent shaft, etc.? I would still have to buy a new worm from Peter at the same time as a wormless motor, because my existing worm can't be freed from my current motor. Definitely Plan B.

Ok, I know you can use adjoining pieces which have kinks in them to make it look more like it does on your actual layout, but this post is trying to show how it would be mathematically possible to construct a TT icon which could cater for 16 outlets.... The square hole is for the square 'pin' on the end of the "Water Crane" to engage in...turning the Wayer Crane operated the turntable... There was a kit, Turntable Motorising Unit, R.411, which was used to motorise the R.410 Hand-Operated Turntable... The Round Hole part is the one that was desighned for the Electric Motor Operated version of theTurntable. (Only Elecric Motor Operated versions have been made for many years now...including the current issue).

Hello,

I realise that my loco's (motor or lights) will not operate until the turntable is in the correct position but I prefer it like that." If you I am thinking of putting a building over the motor housing....possibly a 'sand house' with a chimney for ventilation...or a Water Tower with vents?

You will need to feed the rotating bridge motor from the dc supply using the old dc controller. So locate the two wires that run to the motor and remove them form any Ignore the DCC Decoder connections to the hut for the R410 TT, this drawing is for a motorised bridge R070 TT and not the manually rotated R410 version.I was wondering whether anyone had attempted to muffle the noise - e.g. inserting sound deadening material on the inside of the motor/gear housing, or mounting the TT on some kind of insulating mat, or . . . . . . ? Because the motor itself is quite quiet. The Hornby method of conversion is a bit brutal and will invalidate the guarantee. There are a few different ways of converting for DCC and may not require removal of the bridge to them continues to do so and the isolation continues to avoid shorts during rotation. All you need to be aware of is outlet polarity on the reversed polarity outlets and getting that correct with respect to layout polarity. In DCC, are the turnouts made live by the roating rail turning to them, or must a separate connection be made?" Bad news on worms. There doesn't seem to be any way I can extract my existing worm without a special tool, which of course I don't have - and I have tried just pulling. And the plastic worm on the X03 looks too short from Peter's illustration.

No - the TT has a 'Split Ring' that reverses the bridge rail polarity once it has passed the half way position in a full rotation.If not, what about a 12 volt bulb of some description, like for example what you would find used on a car - side light / stop light / turn indicator light / interior light etc? I, too, have just bought and installed a Hornby Turntable. I think you have made two conflicting statements in your post... removed or a short circuit will result. What causes this short to occur - from where to where?[/i]" From my point of view, I run my trains via Railmaster programs, including the movement of the turntable. I prefer to be as automated as possible so that I can enjoy watching the trains, rather than spend a lot of time and mental energy controlling them myself. But as I say, that is only my personal preference. IF, I wire one rail to + and one to - then surly when I turn the table by 180 degrees, I will get a direct short. Yes?"